A Weekend In Edinburgh: The Best Places to Eat, Drink, and Explore
Over the last few months, I’ve been pondering what the term “vacation” means to me. I am someone who loves to make the most of every single trip, the type of person who treats every moment as an opportunity to explore. For me, I am not the friend you call if you want to lay on a beach for five consecutive days and sip cocktails. While that may sound ideal for some, I am the friend you call if you want to dive into each destination, like it’s your only chance to be there. Squeezing in an early walk to a local attraction, visiting local markets, trying every restaurant and bar you can…For me, it’s about experiencing as much as possible. Some people may call me crazy, but often I treat my trips like it could be the last time in that place, so I soak in every sight, sound, and flavor, leaving no stone unturned. While it may mean that I return home exhausted, travel is about fully embracing the adventures and making memories that last long after the trip is over.
When I found myself with a free weekend in the UK, rather than spend a weekend in one of my all-time favorite places, London, I decided to take the train North and explore Edinburgh, Scotland. I was drawn to Edinburgh not only because it’s a city steeped in history, but it has a vibrant cultural scene. Whether you choose to hike up to Arthur’s seat for the panoramic views or explore the city’s restaurants, pubs, and local shops, you can sense the energy. It’s the type of city with a unique charm that keeps people coming back.
If you are considering Edinburgh for your next weekend getaway, here are some of my absolute favorites I discovered along the way.
Friday
7:00 p.m
Assuming you had an uneventful train ride into Haymarket or Waverly station, I recommend dropping your bags at the hotel, freshening up a bit, and making your way to Hey Palu for a cocktail to start the evening.
Hey Palu is a cozy Italian-inspired cocktail bar perfect for anyone who enjoys well-crafted drinks in a laid-back atmosphere. Depending on the day you’ve had, here are two cocktails that you must try. First, start the evening off with a Dirty Vodka Martini. You may be thinking that a Dirty Martini seems a bit common and a cocktail you could get at any bar, and you can, but you’d be missing the Hey Palu twist. This martini comes straight from the freezer and includes sherry, olive oil, and a personal side of truffled olives (which I recommend swirling around in the martini a time or two).
Hey Palu | Dirty Vodka Martini | Vodka + Dry Sherry + Olive Oil + Truffled Cheese Olives
If you aren’t in the mood for a martini or they aren’t your thing, let me introduce you to the Negroni Flight, which is comprised of three mini Negronis: a classic Negroni, a White Strawberry Negroni, and last but not least, the Caffé Cyroni. Honestly, I enjoyed all three, but the White Strawberry Negroni was light, refreshing, and the perfect send-off to dinner.
Pro-Tip | To secure the perfect aperitivo, click HERE and make a reservation.
Hey Palu | Negroni Flight | Classic Negroni + White Strawberry Negroni + Caffé Cyroni
8:30 p.m.
It’s time for dinner at what happens to be one of the best restaurants I discovered on this trip, Mirin. Located roughly 1.7 miles from Hey Palu along Leith Walk, you can hop in a quick Uber or get a few steps in before a decadent dinner.
Known for small plates, decadent dumplings, and often steamed-up windows, Mirin is one of the most incredible, sought-after Asian-influenced restaurants in Edinburgh. Despite the size of the restaurant (if I remember correctly, it seats roughly 20 people), it has quite a lengthy menu that changes at the chef's whim. I pored over the menu, and just when I thought I had it figured out, I spotted something else I was dying to try. The staff advises you to order two to three dishes per person, depending on your hunger level. Given that I spent four hours on a train and only had a chance to grab a quick snack from Pret, I was borderline starving.
Seeing that I was coming off my corn pillow high at Rolf and Daughters, I started with the Broccoli, which was immersed in this sweet corn concoction that made my eyes roll to the back of my head. Before I could finish, the Lamb dumplings made their way to the table. Hear me say, I could have consumed at least three orders of those dumplings alone. They were delicate but filled with the most incredible flavor.
Mirin | Broccoli | BBQ Broccoli + Sweetcorn + Miso Chawanmushi + Crispy Sweetcorn
Mirin | Lamb Kofta +Chilli +Kaffir Lime Broth
Mirin | Scallop + Smoked Haddock +Samphire + Laksa Broth
While planning this trip, I read the most incredible things at Mirin's noodles, but it was over when I spotted the Tonkatsu Slider. When it made its way to the table, I laughed. All I could think about was the fact that I would have to manhandle the sandwich with two hands. Y'all, I had zero regrets. The crispy wonton, coupled with the pork patty and the cheese- not to mention that soft and squishy brioche bun. INCREDIBLE. I don't know what inspired the chef but by far the standout of the evening.
Even though I was leaning towards adding dessert to the mix, the staff recommended that I add the Scallop dumplings. Who am I to argue with the experts?
While I am not typically a seafood person, these proved to be heavenly.
Mirin proved to be my FAVORITE dinner during the trip. The dishes I enjoyed reminded me of some of my favorite restaurants (Rolf and Daughters, Locust and Kasama). I cannot recommend Mirin enough; it will be the first place I stop when I return to Edinburgh.
Pro-Tip | Given the intimate nature of the restaurant, reservations are a must. Click HERE to secure your preferred date and time.
Mirin | Tonkatsu Slider | Katsu Pork Patty + Chasu Pork Shoulder + American Cheese + Crispy Vinegar Wonton + Pickled Daikon + Burger Sauce + Brioche Bun
10:30 p.m.
Now that you've arguably had one of the best meals all year, it's time to take a walk and end with a nightcap at Panda & Sons.
Known as one of Edinburgh's must-visit cocktail bars, Panda & Sons is repeatedly ranked among the World's 50 Best Bars, coming in at number 30 in 2024. Hidden behind the facade of a vintage barbershop, this speakeasy-style bar creates an immersive experience for patrons the moment they step inside. Whether you are a cocktail enthusiast or just looking for a nightcap and a place to unwind, Panda & Sons is sure to cure what ails you.
While I was escorted downstairs and to my seat, it was sensory overload. From the decor to the quirky and playful atmosphere, it was a complete vibe.
As I perused the Transcend 2024 menu, it honestly reads more like a novel than anything else. As I turned the page, cocktail after cocktail began to pop out. I thought, If I sit here long enough, I can try as many as I want!
Panda & Sons | Coconut Daiquiri | Bacardi Carta Blanca Rum + Roasted Coconut + Acids
After agonizing over my decision, I sought guidance from the professionals, leading me to the cocktail above, the Coconut Daiquiri. Quite frankly, it wouldn't have been on my radar, but I was thankful for the recommendation—definitely a winner.
For my next cocktail, I was torn between the ostentatious Birdcage, which includes quite the dramatic reveal, and the Malted Affogato. Of course, I made the prudent decision to keep with the coconut theme and ordered the Malted Affogato. This cocktail was the perfect ending to the evening, as it reminded me of an Espresso Martini with a bit of ice cream. My favorite part was that they served it with a little spoon.
Given the popularity of this establishment, reservations are highly recommended.
Panda & Sons | Malted Affogato | Naked Malt Whiskey + Coffee + Barley Malt Syrup + Coconut Ice Cream
saturday
9:00 a.m.
Prince Street Gardens & Ross Fountain
I'm not a monster, y'all, but I recommend getting up bright and early on Saturday morning if you want to see as much as possible. First, grab a cup of coffee, take an early morning stroll through Prince Street Gardens, and check out the Ross Fountain. Not only is it an absolute stunner, but it's also a vantage point for Edinburgh Castle.
Prince Street Gardens | Ross Fountain
Prince Street Gardens
9:30 a.m.
The Royal Mile and Victoria Street
Once you’ve finished strolling through the gardens, your next stop is the Royal Mile. After an evening of indulgence, one coffee is never enough. I stopped at The Milkman, which is located on Cockburn Street. The café occupies a former milk bar, preserving a bit of its old-school charm with a modern twist. The exposed stone walls, wooden accents, and simple decor create a warm and inviting space, making it a perfect spot to relax and escape the hustle and bustle of the city or grab a coffee for takeaway and continue your exploration of Edinburgh.
A pastry and flat white did the trick—I was ready to conquer any stairs or hills that came my way. As I meandered up the Royal Mile, I did some people-watching and checked out the local stores and boutiques. But perhaps the most memorable thing was spotting this chap on the street.
Call me cliche, but listening to bagpipes in Scotland is extraordinary.
I wandered a bit more to the Victoria Street. Victoria Street in Edinburgh is a tourist hotspot because of its stunning, colorful charm and historic feel. The curved, cobbled street has vibrant, multi-colored buildings housing quirky shops, restaurants, and cafes, making it a perfect place to explore and take photos. Its unique look has also made it a popular inspiration for Harry Potter fans, as it's said to have influenced Diagon Alley in the books.
Victoria Street
10:15 a.m.
Grassmarket Square
Once you’ve finished capturing your colorful selfies, it’s time to check out Grassmarket Square. Nestled in the heart of the Old Town, this bustling square is surrounded by pubs, cafes, and shops, making it a perfect place to grab a bite to eat or relax with a drink. It's also known for its historical significance, as it was once the site of public executions, adding a layer of intrigue for history buffs. Today, it’s a vibrant area where visitors can soak up the local culture, enjoy street performances, and take in the beautiful medieval architecture.
I wandered through when the market was open, and there was an assortment of traders. It's definitely worth a drive-by if you ask me.
10:30 A.M.
Dean Village
Dean Village
Admittedly, you’ve spent your morning among tourists, and sometimes, a break is greatly needed.
Dean Village
Dean Village is a favorite spot in Edinburgh because of its picturesque, peaceful charm, and it feels like a hidden escape from the city. Located just a short walk from the bustling city center, this quaint village along the Water of Leith looks like something out of a storybook, with its historic stone cottages, cobbled streets, and lush greenery. The area used to be a milling village, and you can still see some of the old mill buildings, which add to its unique character. This is an excellent place to stroll by the river, take beautiful photos, and enjoy a quiet break from the busy tourist spots.
Dean Village
12:00 p.m.
Let’s have lunch!
By now, you’ve worked up an appetite, and it’s time for yet another fabulous restaurant, The Outsider.
My FYP page on TikTok was working overtime while planning this excursion to Edinburgh, which is how I learned about this charming little restaurant.
The Outsider is popular with locals and tourists alike not only for its delicious, reasonably priced food but also for its incredible views of Edinburgh Castle. Patrons can expect to see a menu that features fresh, locally sourced ingredients that rotate daily. I love the fact that the menu includes handwritten specials for the day.
The Outsider | Views of Edinburgh Castle
I was fortunate enough to secure a table with a lovely view of Edinburgh Castle. The Outsider featured some great specials, but the table next to me easily influenced me to order the Steamed Mussels. The fries hit the spot.
The Outsider | Steamed Mussels + White Wine + Cream + Bacon + Pine Nuts + Parmesan + Basil + Fries
As I enjoyed a leisurely lunch, I could regroup and decide how I wanted to spend the rest of the afternoon. Of course, a girl needs sustenance, so dessert was in order. At my server's recommendation, I ordered the Chocolate and Orange Pave and substituted the Blood Orange Sorbet for Vanilla Ice Cream. A perfect afternoon treat.
The Outsider | Chocolate and Orange Pave + Vanilla Ice Cream
Pro-Tip | If you want to dine at The Outsider, reservations can only be made via phone roughly two weeks in advance. I called two months prior, and they told me to call back closer to the date. While they take walk-ins, your best bet to secure a table with a view is to call.
2:30 p.m.
The Gently Mad
I like to keep the afternoons open when I travel, as I never know how I will feel. This allows me flexibility if I need to recalibrate my travel agenda.
After finishing an incredible lunch at the Outsider, it’s time to wander a bit and check out the local shops and boutiques. There was one shop in particular that I wanted to visit: The Gently Mad.
Whether you are a self-proclaimed bibliophile or perhaps looking for a unique gift for someone, look no further than The Gently Mad.
Opened in 2012, The Gently Mad is a bookbinder and bookshop where patrons can expect to find a wide selection of books on Natural History, Scottish interests, architecture, and Children’s books. When you enter the store, you are magically transported back to a space filled with old leather volumes, dusty books, and vintage postcards.
The shop is quite quaint and filled with treasures. I spent an excessive amount of time flipping through postcards and persuing the books. I always find it fun to look for vintage cookbooks when I am in another city.
It’s an eclectic, quirky little shop that I highly recommend stopping in to check out, as you never know what you may find!
The Gently Mad
4:00 p.m.
Rest and relaxation
It’s usually at this point in the day that I hit a wall. Between the time change and the extensive number of miles logged exploring the city, all I can think about is taking my sneakers off, grabbing a quick nap, and freshening up for my evening activities.
However, there’s so much to see that you may choose to push through to dinner.
6:30 p.m.
Pre-Dinner Cocktails at Gleneagles Townhouse
It’s incredible how powerful a quick nap and shower can be for the soul.
The recipe for a perfect night out in any city includes many things: great weather (fingers crossed the rain holds off for you), extraordinary food, and great vibes. One key ingredient for the perfect night out in Edinburgh is visiting Gleneagles Townhouse.
Grabbing a cocktail at the Gleneagles Townhouse in Edinburgh is a treat, not just because of the drinks but also because of the gorgeous setting.
Gleneagle Townhouse
Gleneagle Townhouse | The Spench
The bar, called The Spence, is set in a beautiful old bank building with high ceilings, intricate detailing, and oversized windows that let in lots of light. It's grand and welcoming, with historic charm and modern style. It’s the perfect place to unwind and people-watch, whether with friends or just soaking it all in solo.
Gleneagle Townhouse | Stunning ceiling
And if you aren’t able to snag one of the posh 33 guest rooms available, this allows you to get a taste of Gleneagles Townhouse, which is a place to gather and be glorious.
8:30 p.m.
Dinner
At this point in the guide, I would love to share an incredible dinner spot with you. However, the restaurant I selected, Aizle, didn’t particularly blow me away. Perhaps my expectations were too high for a guided tasting experience, but overall, the restaurant lacked that certain ambiance/vibe that’s critical to the guest experience. On a positive note, Aizle provides guests with an ingredient list rather than a menu, which was an interesting twist on the evening. Overall, I was underwhelmed with the experience and cannot confidently recommend this establishment to my readers.
There is one restaurant that I happened upon, but it was too late to get a reservation: eòrna restaurant. Quickly becoming one of Edinburgh's most popular dining spots, eòrna offers an intimate, unique take on Scottish fine dining. Guests will find the restaurant small yet cozy, with only a handful of seats available each night. While this may make reservations a little more challenging, it ensures every guest gets a personalized experience.
Now that you know about this hidden gem, plan accordingly!
Sunday
7:30 a.m.
Lannan Bakery
Yes, I know it’s incredibly early, but I promise a visit to Lannan Bakery is absolutely worth the wait.
You have to love the power of social media. As I was doing reconnaissance for my trip, I stumbled upon this Instagram post that featured the most picture-perfect croissants I’ve ever seen. Needless to say, I went on a deep dive because I needed to know everything I could about this bakery.
Lannan Bakery | Line Upon Arrival At 8:19 a.m.
Open Thursday through Sunday at 8:00 a.m., there’s a reason that people around the globe queue often and early at Lannan Bakery. The mastermind behind this operation is Scottish-native Darcie Maher. She spent time refining her craft at Twelve Triangles Bakery and The Palmerston before venturing out on her own in 2023 to open Lannan Bakery. Within a year of being open, the bakery has over eighty-eight thousand followers on Instagram and has been awarded La Liste’s Best Pastry Opening of the Year 2024. Quite the accomplishment!
Maybe I was being optimistic or downright delusional, but I left my hotel a few minutes before 8:00 a.m. and walked to the bakery. Keep in mind that it was roughly a 15-20-minute walk from my hotel.
I knew there would likely be a few people in line, but imagine my surprise when I got closer and found a queue down Hamilton Place. There are very few places where I will wait in a queue for extraordinary lengths of time. In fact, only a handful come to mind, including Kasama Restaurant in Chicago. At this point, I walked all the way here, and I wasn’t leaving Edinburgh without having a little bit of Lannan in my life.
Lannan Bakery | Medjool Date & Panela Butterscotch
While I was in the queue, I chatted with other pastry enthusiasts and had the chance to get a sneak peek into their production line. Quite the tease if you ask me!
FINALLY, I made it to the bakery's entrance. It took me roughly an hour, but the delayed gratification was worth it.
What makes people flock to Lannan Bakery? Simply put, their pastries stand out in Edinburgh because of their dedication to quality, craftsmanship, and fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Unlike other bakeries and pastry shops, they focus on making small batches daily, meaning each pastry is exceptionally fresh and has the perfect balance of flavors and textures. Patrons can expect to find classic pastries like their perfectly laminated croissants and other assorted pastries with a unique or seasonal twist.
For those of you who like to peruse the menu in advance, there’s not one available. Once you enter the bakery, you’ll see the assorted options for the day.
After waiting in line for an hour, I was in desperate need of a cappuccino and not one but four pastries.
My order was as follows: Croissant, Pistachio and White Chocolate Pain Suisse, Medjool Date & Panela Butterscotch, and a Cinnamon Bun.
Lannan Bakery | She Secured The Goods!
On my walk back to the hotel, I popped into Princes Street Gardens, sipped on my cappuccino, and enjoyed the croissant. Talk about next level. Knowing that I had a four-hour train ride ahead, I decided to exercise self-restraint and save the others for my journey home.
Pro-Tip | Learn from my mistake, recommended arrival is 7:30, but certainly no later than 7:45. Order all of the things; you won’t be disappointed.
11:00 a.m.
Calton Hill
Again, I am that person who looks to maximize every moment possible when traveling. Rather than calling it for the day, I’d encourage you to stretch your legs one final time before boarding your train… which means it’s time to check out Calton Hill.
Calton Hill
Calton Hill is a popular spot for visitors in Edinburgh because of its incredible views and historical monuments. The hill offers panoramic views of the city’s skyline, including iconic landmarks like Edinburgh Castle, Arthur’s Seat, and the Firth of Forth. It’s an ideal place to take in the city’s beauty, especially at sunrise or sunset when the light casts a golden glow over the buildings and hills. People come here for the scenery and the peaceful atmosphere, making it a perfect escape from the busy streets below.
National Monument Of Scotland
Time to catch the train- Back to reality
Edinburgh is a city that wraps you in its charm, and a weekend here is the perfect way to taste, sip, and explore its best spots. From cozy cafes and incredible bakeries to historic landmarks and breathtaking viewpoints, Edinburgh has something to make every moment feel special. Whether you're discovering the flavors of the city at places like The Outsider or Lannan Bakery, taking in the views from Calton Hill, or strolling through the cobbled streets of the Old Town, there’s an adventure waiting around every corner. A weekend might feel too short, but Edinburgh has a way of leaving you inspired and eager to come back for more. So, pack your bags and a cute pair of trainers, bring a good camera, and get ready to fall in love with this amazing city!
Until Next Time!